Looking out from the F train as it rises above ground, you get a bird's-eye view of Gowanus. From this vantage point, you can see the canal clearly cutting through the heart of the neighborhood and spreading out from it are lots teeming with scrap metal, concrete mixing plants and lumber yards. The highly polluted canal is the stuff of urban legend, purported to be the home of three-eyed fish, dumped bodies and toxic sediment. In 2009, the EPA deemed the canal a Superfund clean up site and at the same time, the area surrounding the waterway was rezoned to allow for residential development. You can now clearly see evidence of those changes - cranes, glassy towers rising and the roof of the new Whole Foods clad with shining solar panels. Yes, the unavoidable realities of an active industrial neighborhood remain, but the area is increasingly becoming an unusual mix of old-school, deep-seated Brooklyn pride and new-wave Brooklyn hipsters.